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What to know which type of vitamin C is best for you? After today you’ll know exactly what to pick for yourself!
Vitamin C is one of the best products to use when it comes to anti-aging, achieving bright, glowy skin and, of course, for treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
Personally (I bet many dermatologists will back me on this), vitamin C is a must in your skincare routine. You need to include it in your skincare routine at any age, especially if you’re interested in anti-aging.
There are many products out there which feature not only ascorbic acid but also vitamin C derivatives. It’s pretty difficult to choose what’s best for you at least I thought it was in the beginning.
Don’t worry though, I think I cracked the code and I’m going to spill the tea today!
What are vitamin C derivatives?
L-ascorbic acid is vitamin C, then we have all of its derivatives. Basically, the main difference is that the derivatives need to be converted by our skin into ascorbic acid which is their active form.
This makes ascorbic acid more potent and effective as it is already recognized as such by our skin, but also more irritating.
Are they legit?
Ascorbic acid is one of the most studied ingredients so it is definitely legit! For what concerns vitamin C derivatives, depends on what are your goals. Some are backed when it comes to collagen boosting and other for brightening. I’ll share details about all of them in just a few minutes.
In the end, I think that the best way to go is L-ascorbic acid as it is the gold standard. There are certain situations in which I would consider vitamin C derivatives more fitting though.
For example, if you have never tried any vitamin C products is better not to start with ascorbic acid as it can be very irritating and your skin needs time to accustom to it. Similarly to retinoids, you need to start with less potent options and work your way up.
For some people though, the story might be different. Some skin types are just way too sensitive to ever use ascorbic acid. In this case, using a vitamin C derivative is better than not using vitamin C at all.
To wrap it up, if you have sensitive skin or you’ve never tried vitamin C, start with a derivative and work your way up to a low percentage of ascorbic acid and build up from there.
Just know, if you never end up being able to use ascorbic acid that’s fine! Your skin is better off without irritation than pushing it to tolerate an ingredient that doesn’t work for it.
The importance of packaging
One of the main differences between derivatives and ascorbic acid is that derivatives are way more stable. Ascorbic acid is very difficult to formulate and it oxidizes very quickly. You need to keep this in mind when shopping for ascorbic acid products as the packaging matters way more than you think.
Basically, each time the product is exposed to air or light it triggers the oxidization process. When vitamin C products turn orange they become inactive, meaning they become USELESS.
This is why, when it comes to ascorbic acid products, the packaging is key!
You want to look for packaging that is
- Possibly air-tight
- Dark or opaque, meaning the light won’t be able to reach the product
What does this mean practically? Here are two examples of packaging:
Incorrect packaging
Correct packaging
As you can see, The Ordinary ascorbic acid is in a dropper. This is what you want to absolutely avoid! When using a dropper, each day you apply your product you expose it to both air and light.
This is very unfortunate. I’ve tried this product and I did notice very great results but I was never able to reach half the bottle without it turning orange.
On the other hand, the CeraVe one is completely opaque and air-tight. I have never had any issues with oxidization in this case and I was able to use every bit of the product.
Considering they are both at an affordable price point, even just for the packaging, one is clearly better and more convenient than the other.
Aurora’s tips
watch out for brands that pourposefully color their vitamin c products yellow/orange. they do this so you won’t be able to tell when it oxidizes or that it changes in color at all!
Vitamin C derivatives deep dive
Let’s get into all of the vitamin C derivatives specifics!
1. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) is a stable and gentle form of vitamin C that’s great for sensitive skin. It brightens the complexion, reduces dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and has anti-inflammatory properties.
Look for products with at least 1-2% SAP concentration, and use it in the morning to protect your skin from free radicals.
SAP is a reliable option for those who want to experience the benefits of vitamin C without the risk of irritation or redness.
2. THD
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) – which you can also find as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate – is relatively new. Personally, I found it to be quite interesting.
It comes with crazy assumptions. It is said to be 50 times more effective than ascorbic acid for example. In my opinion, there is not enough scientific evidence to make such a claim, at least not that I could gather.
I think there could be more to this vitamin C derivative but we just don’t know much about it yet, since is relatively new.
What is great about THD though is that it definitely is more stable than ascorbic acid so it oxides less quickly. Basically, if you have sensitive skin this is a great option for you, but if your skin can handle it, I would recommend ascorbic acid.
I also recommend it to those with dryer skin types.
Also, keep in mind that 15% THD is not comparable to 15% ascorbic acid since ascorbic acid is way more potent. Probably 10-15% THD can compare with 5% ascorbic acid.
A great thing about THD is that is fantastic for treating dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
3. Ascorbyl glucoside
Ascorbyl glucoside is a water-based vitamin C derivative. It seems to have a similar collagen-boosting function to ascorbic acid although it was not proven to brighten the skin.
Honestly, there are other products and ingredients that are way better for collagen boosting. For example retinoids.
If anti-aging is your main focus I have a complete guide on retinoids’ benefits and downsides as well as a curated routine to use retinoids the right way!
Back to vitamin C, I think that if anti-aging is not your main concern yet ascorbyl glucoside can be a cheap and lighter way to prevent wrinkles and aging of the skin.
4. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate has kind of been forgotten compared to other vitamin C derivatives. It is proven to be great at skin brightening specifically to target dullness but is not specifically great in treating dark spots as THD is.
I personally haven’t tried any product with this derivative so, obviously, I don’t feel like recommending anything.
5. Ethylated L-ascorbic acid
Ethylated L-ascorbic acid or, more generally, ascorbic acid is currently the gold standard for vitamin C derivatives. It is the one that has been studied the most and, therefore, I feel like it’s an investment for our skin.
Honestly, I always prefer to use products and ingredients that have been proven to work, that are baked by science basically. Of course, my recommendation to you is the same just be aware that there are a few caveats to this.
For starters, ascorbic acid can be very irritating, it is no joke. In fact, it’s mandatory that you know how to maintain your skin barrier healthy.
Which is the best vitamin C derivative for you?
Before we get to the specific products of each vitamin C derivative I think it’s important to summarize what you’ve learned so far.
To make your life easier, here’s a table for you to compare the derivatives quickly and have a better understanding of what may work best for you.
| Vitamin C Derivative | Stability | Penetration | Efficacy | Irritation Potential | Benefits | Drawbacks | Skin Types |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| L-ascorbic acid | Unstable | Low | High | High | Brightens skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles | May cause irritation in sensitive skin | Normal to oily, not recommended for sensitive skin |
| Ascorbyl glucoside | Stable | Low to moderate | Moderate | Low to none | Brightens skin, reduces dark spots and uneven skin tone | Less irritating than L-ascorbic acid but may not be as effective | Normal to sensitive |
| Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate | Stable | Moderate | Moderate | Low to none | Brightens skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles | May not be as effective as other forms of vitamin C | Normal to dry |
| Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate | Stable | High | High | Low to none | Brightens skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, protects against environmental stressors | May be expensive compared to other forms of vitamin C | Normal to oily |
| Sodium ascorbyl phosphate | Stable | Moderate | Moderate to high | Low to moderate | Brightens skin, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, has anti-inflammatory proterties. | Less potent than L-ascorbic acid. May cause mild irritation for extremely sensitive skin. | Oily, acne-prone |
By including more detailed information about the benefits and drawbacks of each vitamin C derivative, along with suggestions for which skin types they may be better suited for, this table should be even more helpful in guiding your skincare choices.
However, remember that everyone’s skin is unique, and what works for one person may not work for another.
If you have concerns about using vitamin C derivatives, it’s always a good idea to consult with a dermatologist or skincare professional for personalized recommendations.
Best vitamin C derivatives products
Best products with sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Derma E concentrated vitamin C serum
This serum actually feels super hydrating. You get a nice plumping effect but it is not sticky at all! Also, it emulsifies when you apply it.
It has other natural antioxidants in it to enhance the vitamin C effects:
- Vitamin E
- Vitamin A (Rosehip oil)
- Green tea
Plus, it contains vitamin B5, a nice touch to protect your skin barrier since vitamin C can cause irritation.
This serum is also hydrating since it contains hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, and glycerin (if you want to know why glycerin is amazing to hydrate your skin check out this article!).
I have to point out that if you have very sensitive skin you should avoid vitamin C serums with hyaluronic acid, at least in the beginning. HA tends to help other products penetrate deeper but, in this case, it can increase irritation.
This may not change anything with derivatives as they are less irritating but if you are very sensitive you may want to avoid it.
When you first apply it, it may feel a little sticky but the stickiness disappears quickly since it absorbs really fast.
Best products with THD
Biossance squalane + vitamin C rose oil
This one is pricy, at least for me, which is one of two reasons I won’t be buying it again although it’s a great product.
This serum is made with squalane which can be a little greasy. So, if you have dry to very dry skin your skin will absolutely love this product. You will get amazing hydration and vitamin C effects in just one serum which could justify the price.
I have acne-prone combination skin so, for me, this product was a little bit too much.
The Ordinary ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate solution 20%
This is basically one of the cheapest. It has vitamin F which is a linoleic fatty acid (omega six oil) that tends to be not so “fatty” which means is also great for oily skin.
Despite the cheap price the application is really nice, I was actually surprised.
Sunday Riley CEO brightening serum
This one is also very pricy but it’s very known in the skincare industry so I had to include it.
It is a very creamy serum, it’s pretty thick in consistency. Obviously not as much as a moisturizer though.
The great thing about this product is that it contains other ingredients that are able to boost the effectiveness of vitamin C.
A great downside though is that it contains glycolic acid which, personally, I think is too much with vitamin C and also, could damage your skin barrier if used every day.
I have to be honest with you, I have not tried this product. I only read reviews and looked at the ingredient list. To me is not worth the price: there are better products for way cheaper, at least from what I can tell.
Best products with ascrobyl glucoside
The Ordinary ascorbyl glucoside solution 12%
It is very hydrating and makes my skin feel very smooth. Also, it has a lovely consistency, it slips nicely on the skin.
I have only great things to say about this product, again if you don’t need anti-aging hard-core stuff yet. Since I’m 23 this worked great for me 😂!
Best products with ethylated L-ascorbic acid
Unfortunately, I have not tried many ascorbic acid products that have the right packaging to maintain effectiveness. I’m very tempted to try the drunken elephant vitamin C serum since I heard great things about it and it respects my packaging standards.
I have only tried one product that is not in a dropper, but I still really enjoyed the ones that were. I will update this post as soon as I find better products.
I think this is a great option to start with ascorbic acid!
The packaging is just right, the price is on point, and the formula delivers. I really love this product. There are just a few little details that I wish were different.
For example, I wish it featured vitamin E and ferulic acid to boost the effectiveness of ascorbic acid other than that, it’s flawless.
Also, I would have preferred it without hyaluronic acid as it doesn’t make a huge difference in irritation with derivatives but I think it could with ascorbic acid since it is more potent, to begin with.
I personally haven’t experienced irritation but patch test it if you have very sensitive skin.
Of course, it contains CeraVe ceramides which are fantastic to maintain your barrier healthy.
Vitamin C products comparison
By now you already have a good idea of what vitamin C derivative you should use. That said, I talked about many products in this article and, while they’re all good, I want to make sure you choose the best one for you on the first try. Let me help you save some money girl!
So, here is a table where I compare all the products I mentioned.
Price chart
- $ = $10-20
- $$ = $21-30
- $$$ = $31-50
- $$$$ > $50
Vitamin C derivatives chart
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
- THD
- Ascorbyl glucoside
- Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
- Ethylated L-ascorbic acid
| Product | Derivative | % of vitamin C | Pros | Cons | Best for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Derma E | 1 | 10% | – Hydrating – Contains other antioxidants – Has vit. B5 – Not sticky | – May be too much for oily skin | Normal to dry skin | $ |
| Mad Hippie | 1 | 10% | – Hydrating – Contains hyaluronic acid | – Sticky at first | Normal to dry skin | $$ |
| Biossance | 2 | 10% | – Luxurious – Squalane – Lots of soothing ingredients | – Not great for acne – Not great for combination and oily skin | – Dry skin – Dark spots – Hyperpigmentation | $$$$ |
| The Ordinary | 2 | 20% | – Can work for oily skin – Vitamin F | – Dark spots – Hyperpigmentation | $ | |
| Sunday Riley | 2 | 15% | – Doesn’t brighten | – Mature skin – Skin too sensitive for ascorbic ac id | $$$$ | |
| The Ordinary | 3 | 12% | – Great to introduce anti-aging ingredients – Lovely consistency – Smooths the skin | – Normal skin – Dry skin | $ | |
| CeraVe | 5 | 10% | – Ceramides – Perfect packaging – Hydrating formula but not greasy – Non-comedogenic | – No vit. E and ferulic acid – HA | – Normal skin – Dry skin – Oily skin – Mature skin | $ |
