Many or all of the products featured here are from my partners who compensate me. This may influence which products I write about and where and how the product appears on a page. However, this does not influence my evaluations. My opinions are my own.
Want to know exactly how to use retinol in your 20s? Here is everything you need to know.
So, I’m in my 20s and would love to start using retinol, but I have a lot of questions and want to ensure I do it the right way. I really want to get clear, radiant skin and also improve my texture. Plus, I’m really scared of wrinkles so retinol felt like the best choice for me.
Hence why I did a little bit of research (more like a lot but you get the point ahah) and I came up with the perfect guide to start using retinol or retinoids as a beginner.
Since retinoids and retinol can irritate your skin it’s recommended you start slowly and build up a tolerance to them. Begin with a once-a-week application and if you are not experiencing redness or flaking work up to two or three times a week.
Many girlfriends of mine started using retinol just by starting gently with it, but there is actually a lot more to know about it if you want to enjoy all of its benefits while minimizing the side effects. The information written on your retinol product may not be enough.
What is Retinol?
Retinol belongs to a group of vitamin A derivatives called retinoids.
Its small molecules penetrate deep into your skin and, once they reach the middle layer, they are able to fight free radicals. Also, they boost elastin and collagen production, meaning they will make your skin supple and plump.
Retinoids and retinol, what is the difference?
Retinol is a type of retinoid that is generally used to describe weaker over-the-counter retinoid formulas while retinoids usually describe more powerful prescription products.
Retinol basically is an over-the-counter version of retinoids. In most cases, retinoids need a prescription while retinol products don’t.
Here’s the catch. Retinol is a weaker version of a retinoid. Retinoids exist as retinoic acid and can easily fulfill their purpose in the skin. Retinol however needs to be converted into retinoic acid first to achieve the same effect.
This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, though. Since retinol is less potent and takes more time to achieve the desired effect it is a little more tolerable than the prescription alternative and will irritate your skin way less.
Retinol benefits in your 20s
As we said retinol can boost the production of elastin and collagen, therefore creating a “plumping” effect. This can help reduce:
- Fine lines
- Wrinkles
- Enlarged pores
I know you are young, so you may not be as interested in this particular benefit as other women may be, but I promise you one day you will be. I mean, is better to be safe than sorry right?
Retinol is also used to help treat acne as well as acne scarring. Severe acne though is usually treated via a prescription retinoid so this is something you need to consider when choosing your retinol or retinoid product.
Finally, retinol has an exfoliating effect which means is able to improve texture and tone.
Here is a list of retinol benefits that can help you determine your goal when using retinol:
- It reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and enlarged pores
- It prevents sun spots and other signs of sun damage called photoaging
- It improves uneven skin texture and evens tone
- It improves the look of melasma and other types of hyperpigmentation
The best way to incorporate Retinoid or Retinol into your skincare routine
The first thing you need to do before starting to use retinol in your 20s (or ever really) is to identify your goal. What do you want to achieve with this skin care product? This is important as it will help you in choosing the product that fits your needs.
Next, you need to set your budget. For example, this could help you choose whether you prefer an over-the-counter or a prescription option.
Remember you have to use retinol regularly for it to work. It takes several weeks to see the first results. In fact, it may look worse before it gets better.
I really encourage you to take before and after photos. This way you will be more likely to continue this journey.
When and how often you should use it
Retinol and retinoids should only be used at night. Also, do not forget to use SPF every morning! These ingredients make your skin a lot more sensitive to UV rays and you need to protect it. In fact, it’s best not to use them during the summer or at least when you go on vacation.
Now it’s the time to come up with a schedule, mark the days you want to use retinol in your calendar, this way you won’t forget. Remember, start applying it just one to three nights a week. I’m telling you this because when I first started I tried to remember by heart and I failed horribly, so if you are as forgetful as I am consider doing this😂.
Exactly how to apply retinol
Here is the exact retioln routine you should follow:
- Cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser
- Pat it dry with a towel
- Apply an eye cream (you can just use your regular moisturizer under your eyes)
- Apply retinol/retinoid product: you just need a pea size amount (or half a dropper, depending on the packaging and density of your product)
- Wait 10-20 minutes for it to dry
- Apply your favorite moisturizer
Aurora’s tips
When applying retinoids and retinol use upword and outward motions. ALSO, don’t forget your neck and décolleté!
Should you apply anything before or after retinol?
Generally, retinol is used alone. If you would like though, you can pair it with hydrating products such as hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. Just make sure to apply them first, then your retinol.
Also, it’s really important that you protect your eyes since our skin is thinner in this area. Just apply eye cream before you use retinol.
If you find these products to be too irritating for your skin, try what I like to call the moisturizer sandwich: apply moisturizer before and after your retinol, and you will find it to be less irritating.
Also, I have an entire post dedicated to what is skin cycling and how it can make you less sensitive to retinol and retinoids if you’re interested.
Applying retinol 30 minutes after washing your face may also reduce skin irritation.
So, after retinol just apply moisturizer, and remember to let it dry completely (around 10-20 minutes). Retinol and retinoids should be left to absorb sufficiently into the skin before following up with another product.
What not to mix with retinol
Here is a quick list of what to absolutely not mix with your retinol as it will irritate your skin even more:
- Vitamin C
- AHAs and BHAs
- Benzoyl peroxide
If you still would like to use these products you can. Just make sure you apply them on a different day or at least in the morning since you won’t be using retinol then.
If you’re interested in how you can use retinol and vitamin C together I have an entire article on the topic!
The Drawbacks of Retinoids and Retinols
People who use retinol commonly experience dry and irritated skin, especially when they first approach the ingredient.
The most common side effects include:
- Redness
- Itchiness
- Peeling skin
Also, you may experience what is called the “purging phase“. It refers to the first period in which you use retinol, during this time it’s possible your skin gets worse. For example, is fairly common to experience acne flare-ups or even just a few more breakouts than normal.
I actually am experiencing a little bit of irritation with retinol as well. As you can see from the photo, my skin it’s a bit red and I have a few pimples here and there which I wouldn’t usually get anymore.
As annoying as it is it’s still a pretty mild reaction. I started skin cycling (therefore also using retinol) 2-3 weeks ago.
I will definitely keep you posted on the results.
More severe drawbacks, normally due to prescription retinoids, can be
- Eczema flare-ups
- Discoloration of the skin
- Photosensitivity to UV light
- Blistering
- Stinging
- Swelling
If you find retinol/retinoids to be way too irritating for you, don’t give up just yet! Try skin cycling, Dr. Bowe’s method to make retinol suitable for even the most sensitive skin types.
Great retinol products to start with
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
This product is definitely mild, it’s perfect if you are just starting your retinol journey.
It is a serum with a light but still hydrating consistency.
The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane
This is the one I’m currently using and I have seen beautiful results.
That said I’m interested in a new product, Differin Adapalene Gel which I will talk a little bit more about later.
What you need to know if you never used a retinoid before is not to start with adapalene.
CeraVe Anti-Aging Retinol Serum
I really liked this one too. I really don’t know which one I prefer between this one and The Ordinary Retinol 1%.
I think if you have oily skin you may prefer this one though because it has a lighter formula.
CeraVe Retinol Serum for Post-Acne Marks and Skin Texture
If you want to specifically target acne marks and scars in the process you are going to love this one!
Adapalene is a retinoid. Basically, Differin adapalene has a higher retinoid concentration than any over-the-counter products.
In theory, you should be able to achieve similar effects to prescription retinoids while suffering fewer consequences.
Now, I haven’t tried the product just yet but many people I trust recommended this product to me. I will keep you posted on the results!