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Want to know more about retinoids and how they can transform your skin? This is exactly what you are about to learn.
The retinoids world is wonderful; everyone seems to be talking about it. While this is a blessing I feel like there is a lot of misinterpretation.
When I first started I had no idea what retinoids were, how to use them, and how to choose the right products for me. This is why I decided to write this guide on everything you need to know about retinoids. This is what I really wanted when I first found out about retinoids.
If you are interested in how to use retinoids I have an entire article on how to start using retinoids like a pro.
What is a retinoid?
Retinoid is a word used to describe vitamin A derivatives, from retinol esters to retinoic acid which is usually prescription strength.
As of today, is common to use the terms “retinoids” and “retinols” interchangeably and it can be very confusing sometimes, at least it was for me.
As a general rule, retinoids and retinols are not the same things. Retinoids are the class of ingredients that is used to describe all vitamin A derivatives while retinol is a retinoid. It’s possible to hear people reference retinoids as prescription-strength vitamin A derivatives and retinols as “weaker” forms.
Retinoids benefits for your skin
As long as you’re not pregnant, breastfeeding, or have an allergy to retinoids they are considered the gold standard of skincare routine.
This is because a lot of retinoids have been well-studied and scientifically proven to increase collagen production in our skin. Do not let people tell you otherwise, retinoids are among the most studied ingredients and they absolutely will boost collagen production, thickening your skin.
Also, they help in boosting your cell turnover which helps even out your skin tone in the long run.
If you’re interested in retinoids you probably have heard they help to minimize and reverse signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, also, absolutely true.
We were able to discover these effects because originally they were indicated to treat acne, another incredible benefit of retinoids.
To wrap it up, these are the tried and true benefits of retinoids:
- Boosting collagen production therefore thickening and creating a strong foundation for your skin.
- Boosting cell turnover which helps to even out the skin tone and fade scars and dark spots.
- Minimizing fine lines and wrinkles and reversing them to some extent.
Retinoids downside
Retinoids are not only known for their several benefits but also for the irritation they can cause. They tend to be very irritating ingredients causing dryiness, itchiness, flakiness and breakouts.
Not everyone has the same experience with them even if they use them correctly by paying attention to your skin, hydrating it, soothing it and, of course, also protecting the skin barrier.
More sensitive skin types especially can have a hard time tolerating retinoids, but do not worry there are ways to combat the retinization process (i.e. the period of time when your skin is adjusting to the ingredients and is irritated).
If you have very sensitive skin I suggest you try skin cycling first and then build very slowly to everyday use, I have an entire article about how to skin cycle step-by-step.
You could also alternate nights: you use your retinoid for two nights, then you only moisturize for a night and you repeat the cycle.
As a general rule, if you want to avoid the retinization process it’s important that you take care of your skin barrier health.
How many retinoids are there?
To explain it simply, retinoids are the class of vitamin A derivatives. It starts from retinol esters which then convert to retinol. Retinol converts into retinaldehyde, also known as retinal, which then converts into retinoic acid.
RETINOL ESTERS –> RETINOL –> RETINAL –> RETINOIC ACID
These are the reactions that take place in our skin when we apply these ingredients topically. For example, if you apply a product that contains retinol it has to undergo two reactions (RETINOL –> RETINAL –> RETINOIC ACID) before it converts to retinoic acid, the active form.
So, for reference, going from left to right we have them from least irritating to most irritating and also from least potent to most potent. This is because retinoic acid is the active form obtained by this chain of reactions from retinol esters.
1. Retinol esters
There are three main retinol esters in order from most effective to least effective:
- Retinyl propionate
- Retinyl palmitate
- Retinyl acetate
Retinyl propionate is the most effective, in fact, it was found to be as effective as 0.15% of retinol.
On the other side, retinyl palmitate is a bit controversial since a study claimed it can predispose to skin cancer. Honestly, I think that particular study had many flaws and that it should be up for debate.
Be mindful when you buy products advertised as retinol because often I find products that are marketed as retinol but the formula actually contains retinol esters. As I said, they are not the same thing and while they certainly are less irritating than retinol they are tend to be less potent.
A great product that actually contains all three of these retinol esters is the A313. It is fantastic if you’re a newbie and you decided to jump in the retinoids wagon but honestly I think it is surprisingly strong.
In fact, it can cause itchiness if you overuse it so be careful if you decide to try it as your first retinoid.
2. Retinol
If you think about the chain of reactions from retinol esters to retinoic acid you can see retinol is third in line, which means it needs two reactions to be converted into retinoic acid by your skin.
This means that retinol, as retinol esters and retinal, is not active and before is able to bring benefits to your skin it needs to be converted into retinoic acid.
In fact, is it 10-20 times less potent than retinoic acid. This does not mean retinol is useless though, it was actually proven that with consistent use over long periods of time it can have the same effects as retinoic acid.
Great retinol products
L’Oreal revitalift retinol serum
It contains 0.3% of retinol which is typically the lowest percentage retinol comes in, so perfect if you are just starting out.
The product itself is not phenomenal at least not for my tastes. The formula is a little tacky at first, although after a little while it disappears.
So, not my top choice but I highly recommend it if you are a newbie and you want to start with retinol.
This serum contains 0.20% – 0.35% of retinol. It is more potent than the l’Oreal one but I actually started with this product when I wanted to introduce greater percentages of retinol.
I did it because it also contains ceramides which are crucial to maintaining your skin barrier intact and avoiding irritation.
It glides wonderfully on your skin and it dries very quickly.
Personally, I have not experienced any redness or irritation with this product. Plus, it is also cheap.
3. Retinaldehyde
Retinal, or retinaldehyde, is more efficient than retinol since it just needs one conversion to become retinoic acid. If you’re already using retinol, for example, using retinal would be a great way to boost results and build up potency without recurring to prescription products.
There are not a lot of products with retinal, unfortunately. Also, they tend to be more on the pricier side since retinal is a pricy ingredient.
That said there are a few great products out there and, if you have the budget for it, I would definitely consider splurging on them.
This product is phenomenal. It has a great formula that glides wonderfully into the skin and, of course, it is effective!
They also have a 0.05% retrinAL cream if you want to start lower which is fantastic in my opinion. They are the same product but with a different retinal percentage.
As I said, they are pricy but Avene usually does sales for Black Friday and around the Christmas season so I always take advantage of that.
4. Retinoic acid
Retinoic acid is the gold standard for retinoids as it is their active form. Usually retinoic acid is in prescription products such as tretinoin, meaning your dermatologist needs to prescribe them to you before you can buy them.
This is because retinoic acid while being the most effective retinoid is also the more irritating and if you don’t know how to use it properly you may do more harm than good.
Obviously, the point should be to start with less potent retinoids to build up to retinoic acid although not all skin types can handle it, especially not super sensitive skin types.
5. Retinoic acid esters
Retinoic acid esters are not very talked about, it could be because they are fairly new. Basically, they are converted into retinol as well as retinoic acid, meaning you will have an immediate effect with them mixed while minimizing irritation due to their conversion to retinol.
Here are retinoic acid esters:
- Retinyl retinoate
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (aka granactive retinoid)
Hydropinacolone retinoate was made famous by The Ordinary granactive retinoid. I just want you to know that this product contains 2% granactive retinoid that only contains 0.2% of hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
On the other hand, The INKEY list retinol only contains 0.05% of hydrocypinacolone retinoate but it also is a great product.
6. Synthetic retinoids
Synthetic retinoids are fairly new and they
- Adapalene
- Tazorac
In summary, Adapalene is better for acne while Tazorac is better for psoriasis.
In the last few years though adapalene was made available without prescription with products such as Differin adapalene gel 0,1%.
Personally, I think this is a great way to use retinoic acid if you don’t want to use prescription products for any reason. I only recommend it IF YOU KNOW HOW TO HANDLE RETINOIDS AND HOW TO USE THEM.
If you are interested, here is an entire article on how to apply retinoids like a dermatologist.
Common questions
When should you use retinoids?
Prescription-strength should only be used at night while OTC products can be used both in your AM and PM routine. That said I personally think retinoids are better at night while in the morning I prefer to use other actives such as vitamin C and, of course, sunscreen!
Can retinoids be used during summer?
Retinoids can be used during summer if you use sunscreen to protect yourself.
How can retinoids be used without irritation?
I have an entire article where I go in-depth about how to properly use retinoids including a complete skincare routine guide.
Can retinoids be combined with acids?
Retinoids can be used with acids but I wouldn’t do that especially if you are a newbie. You can combine it over time, when you are more experienced. As a general rule, you can alternate nights at first and then, very slowly, build up your tolerance to use them along with acids.
This post was all about a comprehensive guide on retinoids.
Want to use retinoids like a dermatologist?
Here is everything you need to know, including effective night and morning skincare routines to minimize irritation.
